October Maintenance Presentation at the Williamson County Native Plant Society Meeting

With a live showing of my ebook A Guide to Landscape Maintenance for Central Texas Gardens

Thursday October 10 at 7:30 pm I will be presenting “Maintenance for your Garden” at the Georgetown Public Library as a guest of the Williamson County Chapter of the Native Plant Society of Texas. NPSOT meetings are open to the public. My presentation will highlight maintenance tasks for this time of year. 

My goal is to give confidence to new landscape owners, as well as long time gardeners, in accomplishing basic maintenance tasks in the garden. I will discuss tools to make the clean-up and winter preparation easy. Myself and the long-time gardeners will give all assurances that it is ok to whack-back the stringy sages, and to let the ornamental grasses seed for wildlife. And while you are out there, go ahead and dig up those perennials that you have been babying through summer. If you had to water them twice a week, its time to let them go and try something new! And yes, we can plant now and in the winter. 

Here is a primer if you are starting your list (or cannot attend the meeting):

Cut back perennials that have completed blooming for the year. 

Use hand pruners for these: irises, wax myrtle, coneflowers, roses, yellow bells (be ready to cut this one way back after a freeze), pink pavonia, coral yucca stalks, turk’s cap if your flowers have expired-if there are buds hold on to them for traveling hummingbirds. Turk’s cap may need a good whacking back in the winter if your clump is getting un-wieldy or rangey.

Use shears for these: coral sage (be prepared to cut this one to the ground if it freezes in the winter), cenezio, rosemary, germander, inland sea oats, most summer wildflower stalks can be cut to the ground, retain the basal rosette closest to the ground. If you are developing a Wildscape, disperse the seeds from the summer flowers in your landscape.

Any shrubs that you want to shape should be done before a cold spell so new leaves under the sheared area do not freeze. October to November is the best time to shear these: boxwood, cenizo, germander, wax myrtle, yaupons- a note about yaupon shrubs and trees: if you have purposefully planted female yaupons for their berries, use caution when trimming so the berries remain through fall and winter for wildlife. You will have another chance to shear in late winter.

Allow these to complete their bloom cycle: copper canyon daisy, bunch grasses (the seeds provide food for migrating birds), salvia gregii

Plant winter herbs and vegetables such as chives, parsley, broccoli, onions, garlic, and cabbages.

Begin planting wildflower seeds for next spring and summer. You want these in contact with soil before fall rains so they can begin growing during the winter. 

For more information on the Williamson County Native Plant Society meeting, visit their website:

https://npsot.org/wp/wilco/monthly-meetings/

For information on the Native Plant Society of Texas Annual Symposium to be held in Corpus Christi this year, visit the state website:

http://npsot.org/wp/symposium2013/

Introducing a Guide to help with maintenance in your garden

Do you have trouble deciding when to prune your salvia greggii? Not sure how to plant the perennials you want to get started this fall? Wondering why the leaves on your happy green plants turned yellow this summer? 

I have compiled A Guide to Landscape Maintenance for Central Texas Gardens to help you know when and how to do what in your landscape. My Guide is available to you from Apple’s iTunes iBookstore. 

After years of teaching in the GoNativeU program; The Art School at The Austin Museum of Art; operating my own design and maintenance business; and years of volunteering in the Native Plant Society of Texas, I put all the information together in an easy to understand publication. A Guide to Landscape Maintenance for Central Texas Gardens is formatted for the iPad. Over 100 pages packed with descriptions, techniques, references and photos to help you create a beautiful landscape to be admired by all your neighbors. 

The book begins by defining maintenance and why it is important to your landscape and community. Tips are given to help you gain access to your landscape, invite yourself in to observe and cultivate. An entire chapter is dedicated to the basic set of tools to have in your shed, what they do and how to pick good ones. 

Everyone knows central Texas has two basic seasons: hot and not-so-hot! Gardening is a challenge in our area, yet I have broken the year down into groups of months and what garden tasks can be done based on the weather. The bulk of the book is the Season by Season Maintenance tasks and check lists. This chapter is full of photographic examples of challenges in the garden such as sunburn, sooty mold, under-watered plants, caterpillars, weeds and more. 

Probably the most important aspect of a gardening book here in Texas, the next chapter is all about Techniques! Step-by-step instructions on how to do the tasks listed in the Seasonal chapter. Transplanting, planting, watering, spraying, weeding and more. 

Lastly there are resources, further reading and websites for plant choices, wildlife garden, and non-profit groups where you can continue your education.

A Guide to Landscape Maintenance for Central Texas Gardens is an interactive book. Not only is there written descriptions, the book includes slide shows, interactive photos, and galleries of situational examples. There is a free preview available for download with real page examples, not just the book intro! Look at the preview and see for yourself what a great resource this new publication is for central Texas gardeners! 

The Basics of Garden Design: Scale

The Basics of Garden Design

Part II

Scale

Scale is the relationship of objects to one another. For instance, the height of the ceiling in your house may be 8, 9, or 10 feet. This is a comfortable space for an individual human or a family group. The h

eight of a ceiling in a department store may be 10, 12, or 15 feet. This is because the space accommodates many more humans and things, in this case merchandise. The space feels comfortable and appropriate for the use.

When designing your garden, you should consider scale in several ways. First, how much of the exterior space of your property will be garden compared to house size or lawn space? Second, what plants-due to their hight and width-will fit comfortably in your garden and work with the size of the house? Size of the house in particular being height, and secondarily mass. Third, which of the plants you choose will be massed to create one large form and how big will that form be to balance with the size of your house or property? In the example at right, the yard space between houses is narrow. The space was divided into different elements to create the illusion of a larger space. The ‘room’ area of the back deck is a space its own, and the size of the deck does

not overwhelm the space as a whole. The pot on the terra cotta colored pedestal is just about eye level. This brings in a ‘layer’ under the

taller trees. It too is sized proportionately to the space, not too wide, not too tall. The amount of green groundcover around the pedestal balances the white patio stone and the size of the deck. The small fountain in the foreground complements the size of the entry to the garden. Any larger and it would take all the attention away from the other elements of the garden.

Let’s begin with the first consideration of garden size to house size. If this is a project you plan to implement yourself, meaning you are performing all the labor, then your garden may be predicated on how much work YOU can comfortably accomplish. My advice to everyone: start small, be reasonable. This will help you accomplish a goal in a reasonable period of time. It will also keep you from be overwhelmed if you have a large piece of property. With these thoughts in mind, where do you want to begin? Around the front door, around the mail box, at the end of the driveway, or across the front of the house? Take out your garden hose and outline the space you would like to design. Leave the hose in place for a few days and walk around it to see if this size feels comfortable. Take a digital photo of the area and its surroundings. I will give you instructions on how to use this later in the article.

Next, let’s consider the plants you may want to use. You may have seen plants in other yards in your neighborhood or on your travels around town. Write down all your plant names and begin to research their sizes. If you are in the central Texas area, the Landscape Guide to Plants produced by the City of Austin’s Grow Green program is a first, easy, free, resource for plant growth conditions. Here is where you want to consider height and width of plants in size and their relation to your house or other structures. A common example I use is to think of the size of a

bald cypress which can grow up to 60 feet tall. Now, if it were planted near a small cottage or bungalow style house, or any one story home which is commonly only 12-15 feet tall, that huge tree would feel completely out of place. (Unless you happen to live next to a river where these magnificent trees are growing naturally). If you want a tall tree for shade: monterrey oak, chinquapin, burr, etc., be sure you have the width to your property as well. Additionally, to bring these taller trees into scale with your house, plan for space for shorter trees and shrubs downgrading in size as they lead to the house or outdoor living space. Alternatively, if you are working on a plan for a courtyard, be sure of the mature sizes of trees and shrubs in relation to the amount of space you have.

In the example to the left, a standard southern magnolia is the shade tree and featured element of this front garden. This magnolia is in front of a two story house with a steep pitched roof. The roof reaches up tall next to this tall evergreen tree. The plants in this garden graduate in size from the magnolia giving the eye a full screen of interest from top to bottom. Next in size down from the magnolia is a bay laurel. At maturity it will be several feet taller than shown here, standing solidly next to the magnolia. Down from the bay are spring bouquet viburnums. Viburnums are large shrubs in this setting. And at the foot of all are bi-color iris.

Now back to the digital photo of the area you want to plan. Print out the photo and tape a piece of tracing paper over the photo. Draw in the outline of the garden bed and start to sketch in the new plants you want. Use nearby

plants in the landscape for scale, i.e., height and width as a reference for how big to draw your new plants. For instance, in t

he photo below we have a topiaried boxwood that is three feet tall. Now, if you want to plant a sweet olive next to it, by research you have found that this small tree can grow to 10 feet tall but is a slow grower and is going to stay about six feet tall. So you would draw an outline of the sweet olive about twice as tall as the boxwood. This reference from this point of view will give you a better feel for how your new garden will feel when full.

Here are some more photos representing scale. Notice how the structures are comfortable sizes compared to garden size. Also notice the ‘layering’ where there is plant interest throughout the

vertical plane. In the photo with the tiered fountain, there is a short picket fence in the background. The height of the fountain is approximately 5’. If this were a taller fountain with more tiers or wider, it would overwhelm the space it is in. The large fountain would be cumbersome, hard to work around, and take all the visual appeal up for itself. With this fountain sized just right, your mind is available to view the entire scene, to sit back and relax and see who else is visiting the flora.

The Destination in the Garden

Your garden may be large, small, medium, divided, split, on the side, in the back, or in a courtyard. Where ever your garden grows, there is a reason for visiting it. This is the focal point, or destination. It is the attraction that draws your neighbors to meet you, to stop on their walk and admire, to sit a spell.

Pictured here are a couple more examples of focal points in the garden landscape. To the left is a simple stone bench with a piece of stone the garden owner considered important. The gardener set the white stone off, i.e. highlighted the white, with the dramatic dark green spikes of coral yucca and its coral, hummingbird attracting flowers. Imagine you are looking at this garden from the street on your evening walk and you are caught by the stone and yucca. You slow down, if you know your neighbors, you stop to sit at the bench-exactly what it is for. By sitting on the bench you can enjoy the rest of this bountiful garden. You want to enjoy it to learn what these great hearty plants are blooming in the heat of Austin's summer. In the foreground from left to right: lipstick red canna lily, fall aster (to bloom end of summer), a single purple coneflower in the foreground with the flower above the purple heart, purple heart, sago palm, datura (night blooming for moonlit garden strolls).

Also notice in this plan the ample pathway. The path serves as a way to move through the garden as well as a line of sight or "axis." More on axis and line of sight to come. But understand this, the path or line of sight generally leads your eye to the focal point.

Here is another example of a focal point. What is drawing your attention in this garden? Not only from the point of view of the photo, but from the house. The house is on the right, imagine you are looking into the garden from the back porch of the house, what would you be looking at? The blue pot on the pedestal with a pindo palm planted in it. The focal point is something very different from the rest of the garden. This object is clearly important and an object that most of us would want to inspect more closely. What kind of palm is that-you don't see one of those everyday? What is that pot sitting on (a block of limestone)? Is that a ceramic pot or plastic pot? All questions subliminally worked into the wonderful plan to get you into the garden.

Again, with this example, there is a nice wide path to maneuver through the garden. The path also allows a line of sight to the entertaining area as well as space to move food and/or drinks to the dinning area. Another basic idea of garden design is the 'gateway' effect, demonstrated here with the two fan palms flanking the entrance to the dinning area. This gate, or door way delineates one space from another. Thus, the idea of outdoor 'rooms.'

In most garden designs, the focal point, or destination, is where the plan begins. Think about what you want to do in your garden. Do you want a dinning area, a reading bench, or a water feature? Or, have you received a piece of garden art that needs a home. Walk around your yard, feel where you want that destination to be. Stand or sit in the rooms of the house you use most and look out the windows. Are there spots in the yard that you watch the most? Or are there spots on the other side of your yard you want to disguise or draw attention away from? This spot may be the place where you build your gazebo, pond, or plant that beautiful flowering tree. Mark that element on your site plan and then work your garden around that.

Beginning your new Garden Design

One of my jobs here in Austin is as a Garden Design Instructor at the Art School at Laguna Gloria and in the GoNativeU Program at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. Over the years of teaching these courses, I have worked to simplify the design process for those homeowners that may not have a design background. These folks want to take an active role in creating their own unique landscape that suits their needs and beautifies the community. The basic concepts can help everyone understand what makes a good design plan and can get you on the way to re-working your outdoor environment.

There are three basics design principles to work with when planning a new garden. 1. Focal Point or Destination in the garden. 2. Axis, line of sight, or view corridors. 3. Scale, or relationship of size of objects to one another.

Before beginning the definition of these principles, have your property site plan at hand ready to sketch in the components. I recommend to my students that they start with the site plan they received when they purchased their property. Have this enlarged to a scale of 1/4" equal to 1'. This large size makes drawing and labeling plants and objects easy to read. We call the enlarged plan the base plan. We then will use tracing paper laid over the base to begin the idea process.

On your base plan, you will have to mark in the fixed items that will not be removed from your landscape. These would be items like mature trees, sheds, workshops, concrete patios, walkways, utility boxes, A/C units, or water faucets. The point being, you want to know where all permanent items are in your plan so you will not try to design over them. Next you will need to notate North on your base. This is in order to study and understand where the arc of the sun is on your property. The sunlight hours will greatly influence plant selection. Also notate where shade falls from the house and from large trees. Another important element to notate on your base is where water is common. Do you have rain gutters or not? Where does the rain rush or sit on your property? Or do you have slopes and outcrops to be aware of? Having a good feeing for the environment of your property will help you understand the work process on the land and help select plants that will thrive.

Now that the base is set, here are the basics of design that will give you an understanding of what makes a great landscape design. A focal point is the object of interest in your garden. What is the reason you like to go into your garden? What is the destination in your garden? Examples could be: gazebos, sculpture, fountain, fancy pot, reading bench, entertainment area, or a specimen plant. A specimen is a special plant that normally would on be one of. Normally this would be something really showy, or something very unusual. For instance: a redbud, peach tree, or weeping yaupon. Have you received a nice chair, pot, or tree as a gift lately? Or have you had a special item or spot in mind in the yard that you have wanted to place or beautify? This would be your focal point. Now, where do you want to see that focal point? Do you want it to be found from the front sidewalk? Do you want to see it from inside the house? Where ever you want to see or experience your destination, mark or circle that area on your base site plan.

I will continue additional steps in future posts.

If you are interested in personal instruction, I encourage you to look at these websites to learn more about classes offered in the Austin area.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center hosts the GoNativeU program which is coordinated by the UT Informal Classes. Class times and descriptions can be found on the Willdflower Center web site:

http://wildflower.org/gonativeu/

The Art School at Laguna Gloria is part of the Austin Museum of Art. In addition to Garden Design Classes, the Art School offers a variety of traditional and computer based art classes for adults and children. I have a weekend class coming up in April.

http://www.amoa.org/site/PageServer?pagename=art_theartschool